How to Assemble the PRIME Cockpit: Step-by-Step Build Guide

Quick answer

Build the PRIME cockpit in this order: lay out every aluminium profile and bracket, assemble the base frame on a flat floor, fit the uprights and wheel deck, then add your seat, wheel base, and pedals. Leave every bolt hand-tight until the frame is square, then torque it down. If you already own a servo base, plan the wheel deck or a bracket like the PRIME Sim Wheel Base Bracket before you start, so you only disassemble once.

A PRIME cockpit is a long-term rig, so the assembly is worth doing properly the first time. Most build problems come from tightening bolts too early, working on an uneven floor, or mounting the wheel deck before checking that the frame is square.

This guide walks through the order we recommend for aluminium profile rig assembly, from unpacking to your first lap. It covers the standard PRIME frame and the accessories that change how you mount the wheel and shifter, so you can plan the whole build before you pick up a spanner.

Before you start: space, tools, and layout

Give yourself more floor space than the finished rig needs. You will be laying profiles end to end and moving around the frame, so clear at least a metre on every side. Work on a hard, flat floor rather than carpet or a rug, because an uneven surface makes it almost impossible to check that the base is square.

Unpack everything and group the parts by type: long profiles, short profiles, corner brackets, plates, and fasteners. GT Omega ships the PRIME as a profile-based kit, so counting parts against the contents list first saves time later. If anything is missing or damaged, stop and contact support before assembly rather than improvising.

• Use the correct hex key size and a ratchet or spinner handle where you can; hand-tightening dozens of bolts gets old quickly.
• Keep fasteners in labelled tubs or trays so you are not hunting for the right length mid-build.
• A second pair of hands helps most when positioning the uprights and lifting the finished frame.

Step 1: Build the base frame

Start with the floor-level base. Connect the long side profiles to the front and rear cross members using the supplied corner brackets, keeping every bolt loose enough that the joints can still move. This is the stage where the frame finds its own shape, so do not force anything into position.

Once the rectangle is together, measure diagonally from corner to corner in both directions. The two measurements should match. If they do not, push the frame gently until they do, then tighten the base bolts in a cross pattern. A base that is out of square here will make the uprights lean and the wheel deck sit crooked later.

• Common mistake: fully tightening the first corner before the rest of the base is connected.
• Checkpoint: both diagonal measurements match before you move on.

Step 2: Fit the uprights and wheel deck

With the base square and tightened, attach the uprights to the base using the brackets and plates provided. Keep them loose at first so you can set the height and angle you want, then check that both uprights are level with each other before tightening. If one sits higher than the other, the wheel deck will tilt and you will feel it through the wheel.

Mount the wheel deck next, again leaving the bolts loose. Sit in the approximate driving position and adjust the deck height and angle before final tightening. If you use a servo base, decide now whether the standard deck is enough or whether you need a dedicated bracket, because changing this later means removing the wheel base again.

• Checkpoint: both uprights level, and the deck at a height you can reach comfortably with your shoulders relaxed.
• If you plan to run a Formula-style position, fit the angled upright brackets before you tighten the standard deck.

Step 3: Mount the seat, wheel base, and pedals

Fit the seat and slide it to a rough position, then mount your wheel base and pedals. Pedal position matters more than most people expect: set the pedal plate so you can brake firmly without your seat sliding or your knees locking straight. Tighten the seat rails only after you have confirmed the pedal distance feels right.

Route cables before you finish. Run them along the profiles and secure them with clips or ties so they cannot catch on the seat or pedals. Leave a little slack at the wheel base and pedal ends so movement does not pull on the connectors.

• Common mistake: bolting the seat down permanently before checking pedal reach.
• Checkpoint: you can reach the wheel with a slight bend in your elbows and press the brake pedal fully.

Step 4: Add cockpit accessories that change the build

Some accessories are easier to fit while the rig is still partly open. A mouse plate, for example, mounts directly to the side support of the PRIME cockpit, so fitting it before you finalise cable routing keeps everything tidy. Chassis supports are also simpler to add before the rig is fully loaded with a seat and wheel base.

If you are adding a Formula frame upgrade, treat it as a frame change rather than a bolt-on. It replaces the standard upright brackets with angled versions for the wheel deck and shifter, so plan it before you finalise your driving position. Doing it after the build means loosening the same joints twice.

• Fit side-mounted accessories before you tidy cables, not after.
• Keep the original brackets and fasteners in a bag in case you change the layout later.

Step 5: Final checks and first session

Go around the whole rig and check every bolt once more, including the ones you tightened early in the build. Pay particular attention to the wheel deck and pedal plate, since these take the most force. Then sit in the rig and push and pull on the wheel rim to feel for flex before you plug anything in.

For your first session, keep force feedback modest and re-check the wheel deck bolts afterwards. New builds often settle slightly once they are loaded, and a quick re-tighten after the first hour of driving prevents annoying creaks and movement.

• Checkpoint: no visible flex in the uprights or wheel deck under hand pressure.
• Re-check the wheel base and pedal bolts after your first proper session.

PRIME build checklist

1. Clear a flat workspace: Work on a hard floor with room to move around the frame, and sort profiles and fasteners by type before you start. An uneven floor is the most common cause of a rig that never sits square.
2. Assemble the base loose: Connect the base profiles and corner brackets hand-tight, then measure corner to corner and adjust until both diagonals match. Do not tighten anything until the base is square.
3. Fit uprights and wheel deck: Attach the uprights, level them against each other, then mount the wheel deck and set your height and angle before final tightening. Check upright level before you torque the deck bolts.
4. Position seat, wheel, and pedals: Set pedal distance first, then seat position, then tighten. Route cables along the profiles with slack at both ends. If you cannot press the brake fully, move the pedals, not the seat.
5. Add accessories early: Fit side-mounted parts like the mouse plate and any frame upgrades before you finalise cable routing and driving position. Accessories fitted late usually mean loosening joints twice.
6. Re-check after the first session: Go around every bolt once more, then drive a short session and re-tighten the wheel deck and pedal plate. New builds settle under load; a two-minute check prevents creaks.

PRIME cockpit parts worth knowing about

• PRIME Sim Wheel Base Bracket: The bracket has two aluminium profile arms and fully adjustable height and angle, and GT Omega notes it is not compatible with the R9 v3, R12 v2, R16 v2, R21 Ultra, and R25 Ultra wheel bases. If you run a servo base, check your model against that compatibility list before buying. If it fits, the adjustable arms let you set the wheel exactly where you want it rather than working around a fixed deck.
• PRIME Formula Frame Upgrade: The kit uses angled upright brackets for the wheel deck and gear shifter to create a Formula-style racing position, and it is designed for the PRIME or PRIME Lite cockpit. It changes the frame geometry rather than adding a part, so it is best fitted during assembly or before you finalise your seating position.
• PRIME Mouse Plate: The mouse plate mounts directly to the side support of the PRIME cockpit. It is a small addition that is easiest to fit while the side of the rig is still accessible, and it keeps menu navigation within reach between races.
• PRO Simulator Chassis Supports: These mount to the bottom of the PRO Cockpit to add stability for heavier wheels, and GT Omega notes they partner with the Pro Support Bars. They are a PRO cockpit part rather than a PRIME one, so check your chassis before ordering if you are looking for extra rigidity under a strong direct drive wheel.

Take the build slowly, keep the frame loose until it is square, and set your driving position before you torque anything down. Done in that order, the PRIME cockpit assembly is a straightforward afternoon job that gives you a rig you will not need to rebuild.