How to Use Metal Ice Cubes on a Sim Racing Rig

Quick answer

Metal ice cubes are aluminium profile end caps that push into the open ends of your rig's profile tubing to close them off. Fit them after the frame is fully built and tightened, not before. Push each cap in squarely by hand, tap it home with a rubber mallet if needed, and check that no sharp profile edge is left exposed.

If you have ever run a hand along your cockpit frame and caught a knuckle on an open profile end, you already know why people fit metal ice cubes. These small caps close off the hollow ends of aluminium profile so the rig looks finished and stops snagging skin, cables, and clothing.

The job itself takes minutes, but the order matters. Caps fitted too early get knocked out during assembly, and caps forced in at an angle can crack or sit proud of the frame. This guide walks through the process in the order that avoids both problems.

What metal ice cubes actually are

Metal ice cubes are end caps sized for aluminium profile. They push into the open slot ends of the extrusion and sit roughly flush with the frame face. The name comes from the look: a small, solid, cube-like block that reads as a finished detail rather than a raw tube end. They are a finishing part, not a structural one, so they do not carry load or stiffen the rig.

Because they are cosmetic and protective, you can add them at any point after the frame is built. That flexibility is useful if you are finishing a rig you already own rather than assembling a new one.

• Check the profile size before ordering, since caps are made to match specific extrusion dimensions.

Why cockpit frame finishing is worth the effort

An open profile end is a sharp edge at roughly knee and shin height on most rigs. It also collects dust and can catch a cable if you route wiring along the frame. Closing those ends is a small change that makes the rig safer to move around and easier to keep tidy.

There is a visual payoff too. A rig with capped ends looks deliberate rather than half-finished, which matters if the cockpit lives in a shared room. If you have already spent time on cable management and slot covers, uncapped ends are the detail that stands out.

• Walk around the rig at floor level and count every open end before you start, including ends hidden behind the seat.

What you need before you start

You need the correct caps for your profile size, a rubber mallet, a soft cloth, and a damp cloth for cleaning. A small flathead screwdriver helps if a cap needs to come back out. Avoid a metal hammer, which will mark the cap face and can deform it.

If your rig uses M8 hardware, it is worth having spare bolts on hand while you work around the frame. The Bolt Sets are M8 and designed for aluminium profile setups, including the GT Omega PRIME range, so they suit this kind of maintenance work.

• Work in good light. Caps that look seated in dim light often turn out to be sitting proud on one side.

How to fit the caps, step by step

Start with the frame fully assembled and all bolts torqued. Clean each open end with a damp cloth and let it dry, because grit or metal dust stops the cap seating fully. Then push the cap in by hand, keeping it square to the profile. If it will not go, check the alignment before reaching for a mallet.

When the cap is started evenly, tap it home with light mallet strikes, alternating sides so it goes in straight. Stop when the cap face sits flush or just below the frame edge. Repeat around the rig, then do a final pass to confirm nothing is loose or proud.

• If a cap goes in crooked, pull it out with the screwdriver rather than forcing it further.

Mistakes to avoid and when to leave ends open

The most common mistake is fitting caps before the frame is final, then losing them when parts get moved. The second is over-tapping, which drives the cap past flush and makes removal awkward later. The third is capping an end you still need, such as a slot reserved for a future monitor stand or shifter mount.

Leave any end open if you plan to add hardware there soon. Caps are cheap and easy to refit, so there is no reason to seal an end you will reopen. If you are mid-upgrade, finish the upgrade first and cap afterwards.

• Keep a few spare caps in your parts box so a missing one does not stall a future rebuild.

Fitting metal ice cubes in order

1. Finish the build first: Assemble and torque the full frame before touching any cap. Confirm wheel platform, pedal plate, and seat are where you want them. Checkpoint: nothing on the rig should still be moving or awaiting adjustment.
2. Count and clean the open ends: Walk the rig and note every exposed profile end, then wipe each one with a damp cloth and let it dry. Checkpoint: no grit or metal dust left inside the slot.
3. Seat each cap squarely: Push the cap in by hand, keeping it even on all sides. If it binds, pull it out and restart rather than forcing it. Checkpoint: the cap should start moving with light hand pressure.
4. Tap home with a rubber mallet: Use light, alternating strikes until the cap face sits flush or just below the frame edge. Never use a metal hammer. Checkpoint: stop at flush. Driving it deeper makes removal harder.
5. Do a final pass: Recheck every capped end for looseness, proud edges, or missed ends behind the seat and under the pedal plate. Next step: keep spare caps and M8 bolts in your parts box for future upgrades.

Parts that pair well with this job

• Bolt Sets: M8 Bolt Sets are designed for aluminium profile setups, including the GT Omega PRIME range, sit flush with the rig's surfaces, and come in sets of 8 in two styles and sizes. If you are tightening or replacing hardware while capping ends, having the right M8 bolts on hand avoids a second order and keeps the frame secure.
• ART Cockpit: The ART Cockpit has a functional design with an adjustable setup, allowing adjustment of wheel platform height, pedal platform angle, gear mount height, frame length, and seat position. On an adjustable frame, some ends may need to stay open for future position changes, so plan which caps go on now and which wait.

Metal ice cubes are a five-minute job that makes a rig safer to live with and neater to look at. Build first, cap last, and leave any end open that you plan to use for a future upgrade.